Nibbles for six

Cantonese cooks have devised this master marinade for “quick-pickling” vegetables such as carrots, cucumbers, or turnips. You can re-use the marinade by adding more vegetables.

8 slices fresh ginger, about the size of a quarter, smashed with the flat edge of a knife or cleaver

1 cup clear rice vinegar

1 cup sugar

1 ½ pounds package baby carrots

¾ pound parsnips

1. Mix together the ginger, rice vinegar, and sugar in a large bowl, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

2. Peel the parsnips and roll-cut into ½-inch sections, cutting the vegetables, on the diagonal, rolling half a turn, and cutting again. Cut the thicker section of the parsnip in half. Add the pieces to the bowls with the carrots and toss lightly to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours, tossing occasionally or overnight for more flavor. Serve chilled. (These will keep for at least 1 week in the refrigerator.)

© Nina Simonds 2008.

My friend, Mary Risley, who owns the celebrated Tante Marie Cooking School in San Francisco accompanied me on my trip to Shanghai and loved this dish.

Here is the recipe that she tested to duplicate this Shanghai classic.

Six Servings

2 eggs
½ cup flour
1 cup milk
Virgin olive or canola oil for the pan
6 eggs
6 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
3 tsp.. hot chili paste
1 cup minced scallions
1 cup minced fresh cilantro
5 oz. plain soft foccacio, cut into strips 8 inches long and ½ inch wide and tall

To make the crepe batter, whisk or mix together in a blender the 4 eggs with the flour and milk.

To make a crepe, coat a 10-inch non-stick pan with a teaspoon of oil and place over a medium high heat. When the pan is hot, pour in enough crepe batter to make a thin circle on the bottom of the pan, swirling it all around. Let this cook a minute or two until set. Break one egg into the center of the crepe or mix the egg lightly and pour it on the surface of the pancake, spreading it evenly. Let it cook for a few minutes. Turn the crepe over so the egg is on the bottom. Mix together the hoisin sauce and the chili paste.

Spread a heaping tablespoon of the hoisin and chili paste over the surface of the crepe or pancake. Reduce the heat to very low and sprinkle the surface with the chopped scallions and cilantro. Turn off the heat. and put a piece of foccacio along one end of the crepe and roll up into a thin roll. Trim and discard any uneven ends and cut the rolled pancake into ½-inch slices. Serve warm.

Mary wants to thank Auntie Mary for teaching us this recipe.

© 2008 Mary Risley, Tante Marie Cooking School

This is a master recipe for stir-frying all leafy vegetables with a stalk. I am particularly fond of broccolini which was developed in Japan and is a cross between broccoli and “kai lan” or Chinese broccoli.

1 ½ pounds broccolini, broccoli, flowering rape, cauliflower, string beans, etc.

2 teaspoons virgin olive oil

2 ½ tablespoons rice wine, sake, or very good quality dry sherry

1 ½ tablespoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon sea salt

1. Trim away the root end of the broccolini stalks and cut into ½-inch sections, separating the florets and stemas. Rinse the vegetable thoroughly and drain.

2. Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add the stalky, tougher part of the vegetable. Cook about 1 ½ minutes and add the leafy sections or flowerets and cook for another minute. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold, running water. Drain. (You can do this in advance.)

3. Heat a wok or a deep skillet until very hot, then pour in the oil, and heat until near smoking. (Don’t be afraid to get the pan too really. This will give the dish its special flavor.) Add the pre-cooked vegetable, rice wine, garlic, salt, and toss lightly over high heat for about a minute. Scoop out the vegetable, arranging it on a serving platter, and spoon the liquid on top. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

© Nina Simonds 2008.

Fresh String Beans

1 1/2 pounds fresh string beans

1 tablespoon water

1/4 cup toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon salt or soy sauce (to taste)

toasted sesame seeds

1. Either using a knife or your fingers, remove the ends of the string beans. Rinse lightly. Drain. There should be a little bit of water left in the bowl (about 1 tablespoon).

2. Pour toasted sesame oil over the beans, add soy sauce or salt to taste, and toss the beans in the mixture.

3. Put the beans in a heat-proof dish, and cover with plastic wrap. Steam in the microwave for 3-4 minutes.

4. Remove carefully from the microwave and take off the plastic wrap. Sprinkle toasted sesame seeds over the top of the beans, and serve hot or at room temperature.

© Nina Simonds 2008

Six Servings

Roasting asparagus spears in a very hot oven or grilling them gives them a unique and delicious flavor and texture. Try this easy recipe and serve them warm or cold.

1 ½ pounds fresh asparagus
3 tablespoons virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest

1. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.
2. Snap off the tough woody ends of the asparagus and rinse the spears. Drain on paper towels. Spread the asparagus out on a cookie sheet. Mix the olive oil with the lemon zest and pour the mixture over the asparagus and make sure they are covered on both sides with the flavored oil.
3. Roast the asparagus 10 to 12 minutes, or until they are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Alternatively, you may grill or steam the asparagus for 4 to 5 minutes until tender. Arrange the asparagus on a serving plate and serve hot or cold.

© Nina Simonds 2008.

What will bring out the best and most interesting flavors of your cheeses? A few suggestions:

• Rosemary Montasio with Chianti or Syrah

• Ancho Chile Caciotta with Orange Pekoe tea

• Goat Cheese wrapped in Hoja Santa Leaf with Deus Brut des Flandres (sparkling beer!) or dark chocolate truffles

• Goats’ Milk Montasio with Sauvignon Blanc or Beaujolais

• Pecan Praline Mascarpone Tart with Ginger Snaps

• Fresh Mozzarella with Chicken Breasts and Garlic (Recipe Below)

Six servings

I love the flavor and textural contrast of meaty mushrooms and crisp snap peas, particularly when drenched in a sumptuous oyster sauce. If snap peas are unavailable, use snow peas and decrease the cooking time briefly.

½ pound shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed and lightly rinsed
½ pound oyster mushrooms, stems trimmed and lightly rinsed (if unavailable, substitute shiitake mushrooms)
½ pound cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed and lightly rinsed

Seasonings
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2½ teaspoons canola or corn oil
1 pound snap peas, ends snapped and veiny strings removed, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Oyster Sauce (mixed together)
3½ tablespoons good-quality oyster sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1¼ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil
½ cup chicken broth or water
1 teaspoon cornstarch

1. With a sharp knife, cut all the mushrooms into quarters, depending on the size.
2. Prepare the Seasonings and set by the stove.
3. Heat a wok or heavy skillet until very hot, add 1 teaspoon of the oil and heat until hot. Add the snap peas, minced garlic, rice wine or sake, and salt, and toss lightly over high heat about 1½ minutes, until the peas are just tender (snow peas will take slightly less time). Remove from the pan and arrange the peas around the outside of a serving plate.
4. Reheat the pan and the remaining 1½ teaspoons oil until very hot. Add the Seasonings and stir-fry about 10 seconds, until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and toss lightly with a spatula over high heat about 1 minute. Add the premixed Oyster Sauce and toss lightly to thicken it, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Scoop the mushrooms and sauce onto the circle inside the snow peas. Serve immediately.

Copyright Nina Simonds “A Spoonful of Ginger” 2008

Six servings

Too many cooks overlook sweet potatoes, except during the winter holidays when they are often candied to a cloying sweetness. What many don’t realize is that their firm texture makes them perfect for stewing and braising and their sweet flavor makes them a perfect complement to any type of meat-chicken, beef or pork as in the spicy curry below.

1 ½ pounds boneless pork shoulder or bones Country-style sparerib, trimmed of excess fat or gristle
2 sweet potatoes or yams, about 2 pounds, peeled and cut into 1 ½ -inch cubes sweet potatoes
¾ pound green beans or assorted fresh or frozen vegetables such as carrots, peas, shelled edamame, etc.
2 tablespoons virgin olive or safflower oil
2 medium red onions, peeled, ends trimmed and cut into small dice

Curry Seasonings:
1 teaspoon dried chile pepper flakes
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh ginger, peeled
1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 ½ teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Sauce
mix all together
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, seeded and diced with juice (about 2 cups) ½ cup light coconut milk
3 tablespoons fish sauce or soy sauce
1 ½ tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
½ cup fresh basil shredded or torn into small pieces

1. Cut the pork into 1 ½-inch cubes. Defrost or blanch the vegetables in boiling water briefly, then refresh in cold water.
2. Heat a heavy casserole or a Dutch oven with a lid. Add the oil, and heat until hot, about 20 seconds. Add the Curry Seasonings and red onion, stirring over medium-low heat with a wooden spoon for about 3 minutes until the onion is tender and seasonings are fragrant.
3. Add the Sauce and bring to a boil. Add the pork and sweet potatoes and stir to coat the potatoes with the sauce. Bring the mixture back to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes are tender. Add the defrosted or pre-cooked vegetables and cook for one minute to heat through. Sprinkle in the fresh basil (if using) and toss lightly for a few seconds to coat. Serve with steamed rice or garlic naan and simple raita (recipe below).

©2008 Nina Simonds

Four to Six Servings
1 ½ cups low-fat Greek yogurt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon chili flakes (optional)

1. Mix together the yogurt, cumin, and chile flakes (if using) in a bowl and serve with the curry and rice.

© Copyright Nina Simonds 2008

A Tray Of Prosperity

six servings

On Chinese New Year, many families prepare a Tray of Prosperity, a special six-sided platter with connecting containers filled with candied fruits, melon and lotus seeds. These foods symbolize riches, longevity, or the blessing of more children. I like to replace the traditional foods with cut vegetables, a more colorful, healthful version of the traditional prosperity tray.

2 red peppers, rinsed and drained
1 yellow pepper, rinsed and drained
1 package baby carrots, weighing about 1 pound

For the Peanut Dip
1 cup smooth peanut butter, or more as needed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine or sake
2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon mined fresh ginger
7 tablespoons water, or more as needed

1. Using a paring knife, cut off the top and bottom of the peppers. Remove the seeds and cut each pepper in half along the length. Then cut each half along the length into 3 to 4 strips, removing any white membrane. Cut each strip on the diagonal into pieces about 1 1/2 inches long. Arrange the peppers and carrots in separate piles in a decorative basket, leaving a small space in the middle for the dip.
2. Put the peanut butter in a blender or a food processor fitted with a steel blade, then add the soy sauce, rice wine, black vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, minced garlic, and ginger, blending until smooth after each addition. Add the water and continue blending. The dip should be stiff, but still creamy. If the dip seems too thick, add a little more water; if it seems too thin, add more peanut butter. Scoop into a small bowl and place in the basket of vegetables. Serve.